Hawaii Seafood Buyers' Guide

Shutome

Shutome (Xiphias gladius)
Broadbill Swordfish
French: Espadon
German: Schwertfisch
Italian: Pesce Spada
Spanish: Pez Espada
Japanese: Mekajiki
Hawaii names: A`u ku; A`u

I. Biological Description

Swordfish (Xiphias gladius), also known as broadbill, broadbill swordfish or shutome in Hawaii, are the most widely distributed of all billfish in the Pacific Ocean. Swordfish are caught in association with frontal zones where ocean currents or water m asses meet to create turbulence and sharp gradients of temperature and salinity. Swordfish make vertical migrations through the water column, rising near to the surface at night from deep waters. Swordfish caught around the Hawaiian Islands are from stock s which migrate throughout the North Pacific.

II. Of Special Interest For Buying/Distributing

Availability And Seasonality: Exploratory fishing in 1989 demonstrated the existence of commercial concentrations of swordfish within the range of Hawaii's longline fleet. Concentrations of large swordfish a round the Hawaiian Islands north of Oahu produce catches from April through July. Commercial catches are possible for several months preceding this period, usually at farther distances north of the Hawaiian Archipelago. Swordfish availability in this regi on may be related to the migration patterns of squid, known to be a major component of the swordfish diet. While searching for concentrations of swordfish, longliners often set gear along temperature gradients ("breaks") indicative of intersecting water m asses.

Distribution: All of Hawaii's swordfish are landed and marketed fresh. Much of the catch is exported to the U.S. east coast, where domestic-quality swordfish can bring a premium price. Hawaii can already claim a major share of the U.S. market for domes tic swordfish. Hawaii swordfish is superior in quality and is preferred over foreign imports by customers who have high standards.

Much of the landings are sold at the Honolulu fish auction, where most primary processors acquire their fish for export. Alternatively, some boats market and export their catch directly from dockside.

Most east coast buyers order entire airline containers (LD-#) of swordfish (2,500-3,000 pounds per shipment). The containers are well-insulated, and bagged swordfish are arranged carefully in layers with larger fish on the bottom and smaller fish on th e top. Swordfish shipped in this manner can be sent only to cities which are served by widebody aircraft capable of carrying containerized cargo.

Substitution: Consumers intent on purchasing swordfish are not likely to be satisfied by substitute species. Unscrupulous fish dealers may attempt to substitute mako shark, whose flesh bears a slight resemblance to that of swordfish, but this is fraudu lent.

Blue marlin (kajiki) and striped marlin (nairagi) are sometimes incorrectly retailed in Hawaii supermarkets under the name "Hawaiian swordfish." Swordfish and marlin have the same general biological attributes and habitats, but they are not alike as se afood. Marlin has a more fibrous flesh than swordfish and tends to become firm and dry if overcooked. Swordfish tends to have a higher oil content, a richer flavor and has a texture similar to that of premium cuts of beef.

Fishing Methods: Swordfish are targeted by longline boats when they swim near the surface at night. Monofilament longlines baited with squid and illuminated with chemical lightsticks are set overnight. The gear is set near the surface, in contrast to tuna longline gear, which is typically much deeper. Adoption of these techniques has developed an entirely new Hawaii longline fishery capable of landing at least 2 million pounds of swordfish annually.

Swordfish are occasionally caught at night by small-boat fishermen who are handlining or trolling with lights. Swordfish are also taken as a by-catch in tuna fisheries throughout the island chain.

III. Of Special Interest For Preparation/Quality Control

Shelf Life And Quality Control: Swordfish has an excellent shelf life as a fresh product, lasting up to 3 weeks after capture with proper handling. To ensure good quality and prices for their catch, most Hawaii swordfish longliners take extra precautions.

These include dressing the fish, removing the kidneys, cleaning the belly cavity, and storing the fish in ice. After this initial processing, the fish is often bagged before being stored in ice. Saltwater ice is used by some boats.

If swordfish is stored on its back in ice, it will retain a firmer body and will have a better overall appearance. If the fish's head is removed just behind the eye, enough head area will remain for gaffing, resulting in less dama ge to the body.

The highest quality dressed swordfish is firm and retains rough, grooved skin (sandpaper texture) and metallic silver in its skin color. Flesh exposed along the collar and tail will have red blood lines. The body in undamaged from handling but may show natural marks originating from several causes. For example, longitudinal scratches along the body may be left by sea lampreys, or very shallow oval wounds ("cookie cuts") may be caused by a species of small shark. These marks do not usually penetrate to the flesh. Swordfish caught by longlines can be attacked by larger sharks, which tend to mutilate large portions of flesh. Occasionally, parasites occur that render the adjacent flesh unusable for aesthetic reasons. Simple trimming can correct this problem.

Product Forms And Yields: All sizes of swordfish (10 to 600 pounds) are captured on longline gear. The predominance of 100-300 pound fish in current landings is not surprising because the stock had never been effectively targeted previously.

Most of the Hawaii swordfish catch is exported to secondary processors as a fresh, dressed product without tails (known as "Boston cut"). Although it is common for longliners to market their entire catch at one price, domestic swordfish marketers recog nize price differentials for three size classes:

100-250 pounds, or more, dressed weight (known as "markers") -- this size is strongly preferred by restaurants because uniform-sized dinner portions can be cut with a minimum of offcuts and odd-sized portions -- the center sections of large loins are the premium cuts;

50-99 pounds dressed weight ("pups") -- this size is less expensive than markers and the yield of uniformly-sized portions is smaller;

25-49 pounds dressed weight ("rats") -- this size is the least expensive but is generally not used by foodservice or retail buyers who require large portions of uniform size.

Secondary processors provide restaurants and foodservice distributors with loins or "wheels" (large bone-in sections cut through the swordfish body). They also custom-pack loin sections for retail and foodservice chains. "Wheels" have a longer shelf life than loins. Due to high water content, dressed swordfish can lose a significant amount of weight through drip loss (up to 3% of initial weight for markers, 2% for pups, and 1% for rats).

IV. Of Special Interest To Consumers/Foodservice Personnel

Color, Taste, Texture: The flesh of swordfish may vary from pale to pinkish, probably depending on diet prior to capture. In either case, good quality is indicated by red blood lines (i.e., blood meat) bordering the loin or fillet. Swordfish has a firm texture. When cooked, the flesh is tender and very mild in taste, except for the rind area just under the skin. Swordfish can vary greatly in fat content: fish landed in Hawaii are considered to be comparable in fat content to swordfish from the middle A tlantic region of the U.S.A., where much of the domestic supply originates. Fat content is a more important determinant of swordfish quality and market value in Japan than in the U.S.A.

Preparations: Ideal for grilling, swordfish is in great demand in restaurants and retail markets across the U.S.A., especially along the east coast. Swordfish is one of many species prepared as sashimi in Japan, and its use in raw fish dishes is increa sing in Hawaii.

V. Historical Note

Because of the long, distinctive bills which they use to slash prey, swordfish have a well-deserved reputation for ferocity. Several Hawaii fishermen bear scars from landing struggling swordfish. The ancient Hawaiians feared swordfish because they would strike and sometimes pierce fishing canoes.

Nairagi

Nairagi (Tetrapturus audax)
Striped Marlin
French: Marlin Raye
German: Gestreifter Marlin
Italian: Pesce Lancia Striato
Spanish: Marlin Rayado
Japanese: Makijiki
Hawaii names: A`u

I. Biological Description

Nairagi (Tetrapturus audax) is commonly known as striped marlin, barred marlin, and a`u, the Hawaiian name applied to all marlin species caught in Hawaii. Nairagi are usually between 40 and 100 pounds in round weight and are rarely over 130 pounds. In the marlin family, the nairagi has the slenderest bill and the most visible "stripes". Although distinct when first taken from the water, the vertical stripes fade. Other distinguishing characteristics of this species are the high, pointed dorsal fin (higher than the greatest depth of the body) and more compressed sides than other species of marlin.

II. Of Special Interest For Buying/Distributing

Availability And Seasonality: Commercial landings of nairagi have increased in Hawaii with expansion of the local longline fleet. Landings are heaviest during the winter and spring (November-June) and are lightest during the summer. The 40 to 60 pound fish which appear in the spring season of some years are juveniles which migrate through the Hawaiian chain, passing through the islands again in the winter with more weight.

Fishing Methods: Most of the nairagi catch in Hawaii is landed by commercial longline boats fishing in the open ocean. However, nairagi may be caught near shore by slow trolling with live bait or lures during certain times of the year.

Distribution: The longline catch of nairagi is marketed primarily through the Honolulu fish auction, where it is sold fresh.

Substitution: The flesh color of nairagi varies from fish to fish. Nairagi having an orange-red flesh are particularly desired for the sashimi market and are often substituted for ahi. Nairagi with pink to light-colored flesh are commonly substituted for other species of billfish or tuna as broiled "catch of the day" menu items in up-scale restaurants.

III. Of Special Interest For Preparation/Quality Control

Shelf Life And Quality Control: Although some longline boats which catch nairagi remain at sea for up to 10-12 days, with proper care, the fish will retain a high quality for up to three weeks after capture (see Table 3).

One of the first indications of a serious loss of quality in nairagi is the appearance of orange parasites, especially in the belly portions.

The parasites can be removed or destroyed by cooking, but they are not known to present a health hazard to consumers.

Product Forms And Yields: Fresh nairagi is sold whole, dressed (headed and gutted), or filleted for local sale and for export. Up to 65% of the whole fish weight can be recovered as fillet (see Table 5).

IV. Of Special Interest To Consumers/Foodservice Personnel

Color, Taste, Texture: Nairagi is considered the finest-eating of all marlin species because of its tender flesh. The natural color varies from light pink to orange-red, as previously described.

Preparations: Nairagi is frequently used in raw fish preparations or is cooked in the same manner as tuna and swordfish. The flesh of all marlin species is ideal for grilling, but the more tender nairagi can also be used in cold seafood dishes and salads. Nairagi is popular for gourmet smoked fish products, but high prices usually direct this fish to other uses.

Kajiki

Kajiki (Makaira nigricans)
Pacific Blue Marlin
French: Makaire Bleu
German: Blauer Marlin
Italian: Marlin Azzurro
Spanish: Marlin Azul
Japanese: Kurokajiki
Hawaii names: A`u ki; A`u

I. Biological Description

Kajiki (Makaira nigricans) is commonly known as Pacific blue marlin, or a`u, the Hawaiian name applied to all marlin species caught in Hawaii. This species can get as large as 1,600 pounds in round weight, but the usual size of fish marketed is between 80 and 300 pounds in round weight. The kajiki is distinguished from other commonly-caught marlin species by its larger size, heavier bill, and rougher, grey skin. It lacks the obvious stripes of the nairagi.

II. Of Special Interest For Buying/Distributing

Availability And Seasonality: The heaviest landings of kajiki are during the summer and fall (June-October), the period when schooling tunas, the favorite prey of kajiki, are often abundant in the waters off Hawaii.

Fishing Methods: A favorite target of sport fishermen, kajiki are also caught commercially by longlining from large boats and by trolling from smaller boats. The bulk of the sport catch comes from the charter fishing fleets operating from Kona and Oahu. The Kona coast is a world famous location for marlin fishing. Trolling usually produces the larger fish, whereas longlining often harvests fish with higher fat content from deeper waters.

Distribution: Sport rollers do not necessarily sell their kajiki catch. The portion that is sold may go directly to retailers, wholesalers, processors, or restaurants, or may be marketed through the fish auctions or intermediaries. Sportfishing tournaments in Kona often select a fish dealer for all the tournament's catch, but trophy-sized fish may be mounted rather than sold.

Virtually all of the longline catch and much of the commercial troll catch of kajiki off the island of Oahu is marketed fresh through the Honolulu fish auction.

Substitution: Kajiki with high fat content is substituted for tuna in sashimi and other raw fish dishes. Kajiki is one of many "white fleshed" fishes that are interchanged as a "catch of the day" on restaurant menus, depending on availability and price. Marlin and tuna are also freely substituted as material for smoked fish. Kajiki is among the local species used to make fishcake in Hawaii.

III. Of Special Interest For Preparation/Shelf Life And Quality Control:

Although some longline boats which catch kajiki are at sea for up to 10-12 days, the quality of the fish is often better than one- or two-day old fish from sportfishing tournaments in which the sales value of the catch is secondary to the recreational value and the fish are not immediately iced (see Table 3).

Poorly-handled fish may have cracked (separated) or turbid (burnt) flesh that is opaque with a dull, beige color. The texture is mushy, and the flesh falls apart easily.

In kajiki of over 150 pounds, there is considerable connective tissue between layers of muscle. This tissue is tough and stringy, and its presence is one of the reasons why fish dealers and consumers prefer smaller kajiki.

Product Forms And Yields: Kajiki is marketed in many forms. Kajiki with high fat content may be served as sashimi. Other good quality fresh fish may be filleted or loined for restaurants to serve as "catch of the day" or for sale in fish markets. Dressed, chunked, or loined marlin may be exported (although not to California which prohibits the sale of marlins, except black marlin, from any source). Up to 65% of whole fish weight can be recovered as fillet (see Table 5). Large fish that are less suitable for the fresh market, but yield a high percentage of usable flesh, may be smoked or processed into other forms such as fish burgers.

IV. Of Special Interest To Consumers/Foodservice Personnel

Color, Taste, Texture: Kajiki has firm flesh with a mild flavor (although somewhat more pronounced than the flavor of ahi).

Flesh color in kajiki is amber, although it varies somewhat from fish to fish. Flesh with high fat content has a naturally lacquered appearance.

Preparations: Marlin is ideal for grilling, but other cooking methods will work as well. Kajiki is also used for sashimi.

V. Historical Note

Like all of the large billfish (a`u) caught by the ancient Hawaiians, the kajiki was feared because it could pierce a fishing canoe with its heavy bill.

Hebi - Spearfish

Hebi (Tetrapturus angustirostris)
Shortbill Spearfish
French: Makaire A Rostre Court
German: Speerfisch
Italian: Aguglia Imperiale
Spanish: Marlin
Japanese: Fuuraikajiki
Hawaii names: A`u

I. Biological Description

Hebi (Tetrapturus angustirostris) is commonly known as shortbill spearfish. Its dorsal fin is shorter than that of other billfish species, and its bill is almost nonexistent. Hebi caught in Hawaiian waters are usually between 20 and 40 pounds in round weight.

II. Of Special Interest For Buying/Distributing

Availability and Seasonality: Commercial landings of hebi have increased in Hawaii in proportion to the expansion of the longline fleet. Although available year-round, the peak in landings occurs during the summer and fall (June-October).

Fishing Methods: Most of the hebi catch in Hawaii is harvested by commercial longline boats which set hooks in deep water. However, spearfish may strike at surface lures, and a few are landed by trollers.

Distribution: The longline catch of hebi is marketed fresh primarily through the Honolulu fish auction.

Substitution: Hebi is one of several species of billfish which are inter-changed or substituted for tuna as broiled "catch of the day" menu items in up-scale restaurants.

III. Of Special Interest For Preparation/Quality Control

Shelf Life and Quality Control: Although some longline boats which catch hebi remain at sea for up to 10 to 12 days, with proper care, the fish will retain a high quality for about two weeks (see Table 3).

Product Forms and Yields: Hebi is sold whole, dressed (headed and gutted), or filleted for local sale and for export. The yield of fillet from a whole fish averages 45-55% (see Table 5).

IV. Of Special Interest To Consumers/Foodservice Personnel

Color, Taste, Texture: Hebi has amber-colored flesh that is somewhat softer than that of nairagi or kajiki. Its flavor is mild (although more pronounced than ahi).

Preparations: Restaurants usually grill hebi, but other cooking methods will work as well.